Region deep dive
Canggu: surf, coffee, co-working and the most argued-about place in Bali
World-class coffee, a strong surf break, fast Wi-Fi and beach clubs at sunset. Honest take on what Canggu is brilliant at and what it isn't.
Canggu is simultaneously the most loved and most complained-about place in Bali. It used to be a quiet fishing and farming village with black-sand beaches and rice paddies. Now it rivals Chiang Mai as the biggest draw for remote workers in Southeast Asia. The rice paddies are still there, just with a coffee shop every 200 metres and a villa compound behind each one.
This is not the Bali your parents described. It is a tropical version of East London or Melbourne's cafe strip, and it is brilliant at exactly that. If you want world-class coffee, a strong surf break, a co-working space with fast Wi-Fi, a 7am yoga class and a beach club at sunset, Canggu delivers. If you want to feel the old, authentic Bali, you will need to get on a scooter and go looking for it.
Cafes
Crate Cafe in Berawa for the industrial fit-out, big brunch and good Wi-Fi, one of the best breakfasts on the island, so queue early or book. Copenhagen in Batu Bolong for consistently excellent espresso and enough Wi-Fi to work a full day, the benchmark for Canggu specialty coffee. Nude Bali for a health-focused, strong plant-based menu. Shelter Pererenan, slightly out of the Batu Bolong chaos, better prices, same quality.